I’ll be examining the differences between a single breasted coat or jacket and a double breasted in this article.
I’ll look each option’s benefits and drawbacks so you can decide which you like and how you might wear each of these items.
Two sport jackets made of the same fabric—an off-white Irish linen from Spier & Mackay—will be the subject of my discussion.
Let’s look at it.
If you see somebody wearing tailoring while you’re out and about in a major city, such as Paris, London, New York, or anywhere else for that matter, chances are they’ll be wearing a single breasted jacket or coat.
That’s because single breasted are the most popular and the standard. In my estimation, 98% to 99% of people who are wearing tailoring, especially in a sophisticated casual fashion, will be wearing a single breasted coat or jacket.
Even yet, there are some considerations to keep in mind while picking a single breasted jacket that make it appropriate for smart casual wear, especially in the summer.
The Spier & Mackay sportcoat in an off-white Irish linen fits the bill.
First of all, the fabric is casual by definition because it is made entirely of linen. The linen will soften, begin to fold at the sleeves, and develop wrinkles in the back.
You can press it, for sure, but you want to keep the casual vibe it now has. You want it to have a lived-in appearance. You want to keep things as casual as possible; you don’t want to press it too much.
If the jacket is single-breasted, you may wear it open very simply, which you might want to do in the summer when it’s hot.
The jacket features soft shoulders, which means it isn’t padded. Unlike the traditional British suit, which frequently has excessive shoulder padding intended to give it a somewhat military appearance. That is genuinely a business-designed item.
If you’re wearing casual clothing, you should keep the shoulder soft, without any padding. That significantly increases its appeal for summertime wear.
The color is significant as well; for the summer, it is cheery and lively, light and brilliant.
Lastly, the pockets.
This has a third pocket on the chest in addition to two patch pockets.
Compared to a welt pocket or a flap pocket, patch pockets are always more casual.
A welt pocket is a single strip of material that indicates the location of the pocket. These, as well as tuxedos and dinner coats, are typical of formal business attire.
The flap pocket, which has a flap on top, is something in-between. Originally designed for casual wear in the country, you can also find those on business suits, but they now have a more formal appearance.
It may look as though you have divided a suit in half and are just wearing the top half if you choose to wear a flap pocket sport coat by itself.
I would advise wearing a single breasted jacket casually in the summer with a patch pocket because it is by far the most casual option.
The jacket has a pocket on the chest, and I believe that you can’t really wear this with a tie because of the third pocket on the chest. Some people do, and perhaps they can pull that off. I wouldn’t do that because I don’t think it would work.
That again suggests that I’m wearing this in a casual manner.
You just tuck a somewhat colorful pocket square inside of this and you’re all set for the summer.
Conversely, double breasted are a little bit different. It’s an entirely new kind of beast.
Let’s look at it and see what considerations to take into account when wearing a double breasted jacket as a casual outfit.
This is the exact same fabric and color as the single-breasted version.
When wearing a double-breasted, you’re completely distinct from other people. You belong to the 1%–2% of people who wear double breasted clothing in public, making it radical.
As a result, you will attract more attention and, to be honest, you will appear a little more out of place.
You want to be able to pull it off and not be self-conscious among people. It’s something you wish to wear in specific situations.
Even while you can wear single-breasted jackets in more casual settings, double-breasted coat elevates the garment slightly more, regardless of the material, regardless of the color, and regardless of other factors. It becomes slightly more formal as a result.
So pick your setting wisely.
A double breasted will work great if you are going to a restaurant for dinner. Double-breasted coat might be a great option if you’re attending a concert, even one that is outdoors in the summer.
However, since you’re already overdressed, you shouldn’t do this if you’re out on a weekend stroll or visiting a garden center.
In this casual age, if the single breasted is overdressed, the double breasted will elevate you even farther into the overdressed atmosphere.
So use caution, but if you think you can pull it off, go ahead and try it.
Why is this more formal?
It has lapels, which means it has little points at the end, whereas the majority of single breasted jackets have notch lapeled collars.
It naturally becomes more formal due to the peak lapel. The power suit shares this trait as well.
However, it is portrayed here as being a component of the sport coat.
Additionally, it features those soft shoulders and structure. It has many characteristics of the single breasted coat because it is made of linen and is that vibrant color. However, it has been lifted up a little bit more due to the peak lapels.
Double-breasted items, on their own, have a well-deserved reputation for being more upscale. Because they are connected with the power suit and formality, such as yacht clubs.
When you put one on, you are in the same type of situation as when you were wearing the navy double-breasted jacket with the gold buttons.
Given that it has extra fabric and must be worn closed in the summer, double breasted coat are a little bit difficult to wear.
Some men wear it open and get away with it. I notice it makes you look heavy in the midsection and down. As compared to the single breasted, there is a lot more material.
A double breasted jacket has two flaps, and it doesn’t look well when worn open. The only time you wouldn’t want to wear it open would be when you were sitting down.
If you choose to wear a jacket at all in a really warm environment, I would choose the single breasted style.
If the weather is moderate or even cool, you can choose a double breasted jacket because you need to fold the flap over.
Consider how you want to pair your jackets as well.
You can still pull off that look with a single breasted if you’re sporting a pair of relaxed shirt and chinos. Even a single breasted with soft tailoring can be worn with jeans.
But it’s considerably more difficult to pull off with a double breasted. Because wearing jeans is considered more casual than wearing a double-breasted suit, there is a discrepancy between the two.
Some men can pull it off, so be certain to choose a material that is casual, like linen.
Having that soft construction is also important. The proper sort of color should be chosen. You want the fit to be snug without being overly bulky.
Given that double breasted already contain more material, they may make you appear larger and stockier, which is undesirable in many situations.
If you want a double-breasted, I would advise trying it on to make sure there isn’t too much volume in the skirt area.
If at all feasible, try to choose something that is a little bit shorter. You should avoid wearing an extremely long skirt on the double-breasted, but you should still have your back seat covered. It would appear like there is an excessive amount of fabric in that location.
Additionally, it doesn’t work well for casual attire. Reducing the size can help with it.
What do you think about single versus double breasted jackets? Would you wear a double breasted? Can you pull it off?