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We looked at suits, jackets, skirts and trousers in the previous articles in this series regarding fit.
It’s not too late if you missed these articles; simply search our website and you’ll discover them.
However, we’re discussing how a woman’s shirt should fit.
It’s not going to be easy, so I’ll take it slowly.
This is a woman in a shirt that is a good fit for her. Because it’s the standard size, it’s not perfect. However, it’s excellent enough to use as an example.
First, can you still put two fingers between your neck and your shirt while the collar is closed? If that’s the case, that’s great. It indicates that you are able to take a breath. Even in a meeting, if you become apprehensive, you may begin to hyperventilate.
Because the neck expands, you’ll need more space around the neck.
The sleeve length is the first factor that can cause you to look at a shirt and then return it to the rack without purchasing it.
When you extend your arm in front of you, the sleeve should come to rest just below your wrist. Not shorter than that.
The cuffs should be snug enough that you can’t remove them without undoing the buttons. That is the hint.
Let’s go on to the bodice itself now that we’ve covered the essentials.
Before the shoulder gets rounder and starts to dip down, the shoulder seam sits at the end of the shoulder.
A blazer or tailored jacket is the same, with perhaps a half-centimeter extra space.
Checking the shoulder seam will help you figure out if you bought the correct size or if you need to scale up or down.
The shirt must sit tight enough under the armpits but not touch them when it comes to the side seams. It will be very tight if you don’t have enough space there, and if you sweat, it will show right away.
If you try on shirts from a variety of various brands, you’ll quickly discover that the width beneath the armpits and the length of the sleeves fluctuate drastically depending on which country the brand is from.
If you choose a Portuguese or Spanish brand, for example, the armpits will be relatively wide and the sleeves will be quite short. That’s for those who aren’t tall.
If you look at northern European labels, you’ll see that the sleeves are extremely lengthy, despite the fact that the armpits are still quite tiny.
So, if you’re short, check for labels from southern Europe to shop for. Also, if you’re taller, consider northern Europe.
There isn’t really a guideline for how tight the fit should be going down the side seam.
The garment’s tailoring must be to your liking. That is all there is to it.
Do you prefer a straighter cut or one that is more fitted around the waist? At the moment, the tendency is to have a little waist definition, but not too much.
Now comes the bust.
We’re trying to fit something flat and stiff (fabric) around something that is totally rounded, which is a tailor’s nightmare.
As a result, adding darts is the solution (places where the fabric is being taken in). It can be positioned on the sides, horizontally, a little below the breasts, or vertically.
What counts is the amount of fabric taken. The more busty you are, the more you’ll need to take in. It should not fit tight around the breasts if you stand straight and put your arms back. Otherwise, you’ll find the pattern too flat.
Slim shirts with an extremely flat front look great on models with a flat chest. They’re extremely straight. This style of shirt will not fit if you are busty.
And you won’t be able to fix it later by taking it to a tailor, because adjusting the waist won’t fix the problem around the bust and armhole. It’s far too time consuming. In this scenario, I’ll try to hunt for shirts with darts instead.
The positioning of the buttons is also crucial. To keep your bra hidden, make sure the buttons are appropriately placed. A button is required between the breasts.
Let’s have a look at the back of the shirt now.
It shouldn’t fit too tight in the back if you cross your arms in front of you. Take a deep breath in. Is there still enough space for you to feel at ease? If not, this shirt isn’t right for you.
Last but not least, if you want to tuck your shirt into your trousers, the length of the shirt should be greater than typical tops.
The shirt should not come out when you fully extend your arms. That is all there is to it.
There are several concerns that can be readily resolved by simply moving one size higher or down. For instance, the placement of the shoulder seam or the length of the sleeves.
There are some problems that you simply cannot resolve. Sometimes you’re staring at an unsuitable shirt. Not only on your body, but on anyone else’s as well. It’s frequently the case in low-budget productions that it’s built incorrectly. The pattern is simply incorrect.
It’s impossible to buy a good shirt for too little money. So stay away from cheap shirts because they are difficult to fit. And recognizing the pattern is a difficult task.
Here are the essential elements to remember when it comes to how a shirt should fit. You are welcome to bring this checklist with you when you go shopping.
– When the collar is closed, there is 2 fingers of space around the neck.
– Sleeve length: a fraction of an inch shorter than your wrist (arm straight, held at shoulder height)
– It is impossible to remove the cuff without first opening the cuff buttons.
– Sufficient space beneath the armpits
– Waist fit (how tight it is) to your preference
– Darts: at least one (or two if you’re quite busty) to avoid feeling constricted at the bust when extending your arms backwards.
– Cross your arms to see how much back space you have.
– Button placement: close enough to each other, with one button at the position where it pulls the most.
– Shirt length: long enough to remain tucked in your pants while your arms are raised.