Find out how to enhance a beautiful brunette color by using only 20 foils.
Check out this lightening technique utilizing a highlight placement and all over glaze to create a mushroom brunette color.
Introduction
- Mirella Manelli introduces herself and explains she will demonstrate how to create the “mushroom brunette” look using a high-impact foiling technique with Kenra Color products.
- The model’s hair is dark, and Mirella discusses the importance of understanding the client’s previous hair treatments, such as using a dark brown toner three months ago and coloring her hair 3-4 times a year to blend natural grays.
Preparation & Sectioning
- Mirella prepares to work with the model’s hair using a blue powder lightener and 20-volume developer, focusing on brightening up the face frame.
- The hair is sectioned using the model’s natural middle part, and the first step involves creating V zigzag sections along the back hairline.
- Mirella uses the Dream Weaver comb, a time-saving tool, but reassures viewers they can achieve the same technique with any comb.
Foiling Technique
- Mirella starts applying the lightener with a mid-zone focus, avoiding too much lightening at the base to maintain a natural look.
- The goal is to reach a level eight from the model’s natural dark color, bypassing orange undertones associated with level seven. This is critical for achieving the cool mushroom brunette shade.
Application & Sectioning: Face Frame Focus
- Mirella emphasizes the importance of face frame highlights, especially since they will be visible when the model’s hair is brought forward.
- She uses diagonal partings for a seamless blend and minimal root shadow, creating a natural look with carefully placed foils.
Subtle Highlights & Consistency
- Mirella continues applying highlights through the back sections, focusing on wider subsections to create subtlety and depth.
- She highlights the entire section without using dropout (or leaving parts uncolored), ensuring a more diffused, natural finish.
- Emphasis on not creating a shadow root, which reduces the need for frequent touch-ups.
Foiling Technique: Mid to Top Section
- Moving to the top section, Mirella uses diagonal partings again and applies the highlights carefully to maintain a balanced amount of depth and lightness.
- She continues applying subtle highlights without over-lightening, making sure the highlights don’t overpower the natural color.
Creating a Natural Blend
- She checks the front section, highlighting thin pieces of hair to add more brightness to the face frame. Mirella carefully works behind the ear, adjusting her technique to avoid harsh lines.
- She reinforces the idea that hair color applications should be customized according to each client’s natural hair texture and growth patterns.
Adding More Face Frame Highlights
- Mirella fine-tunes the face frame by adding more highlights, ensuring they’re not too thick or harsh, but just enough to define the shape of the face.
- She uses a “money piece” method to highlight two fingers’ width, ensuring that the model’s hairline looks natural and seamlessly blends into the rest of the hair.
Final Steps Before Processing
- As the foils are all in place, Mirella checks the positioning and balance, making sure everything is evenly distributed.
- The model’s hair is left to process at room temperature. Mirella monitors the progress every 15-20 minutes to ensure she reaches a level eight and continues adjusting the foils where necessary.
Processing & Toning
- After 45 minutes, the highlights have achieved the desired lift. Mirella does a reapplication of lightener to boost the darkest sections, ensuring an even tone.
- She checks the lifted sections using a level finder to determine the right toner for the hair, aiming to cool down the orange tones.
- She prepares a toner using Kenra Color’s 8nua (Natural Ultra Ash) to neutralize any residual warmth, ensuring the final result is a cool, mushroom brunette.
Applying the Toner
- Mirella applies a porosity equalizing spray to even out the hair’s texture before applying the toner, ensuring even color absorption.
- The toner is applied from roots to ends, and Mirella uses a 1:2 mixing ratio to achieve the right level of saturation without over-depositing color.
At the end, the hair is expected to show a natural, cool mushroom brunette color that’s easy to maintain, with seamless highlights and no harsh lines.
