How to Buy a Custom Suit (Online & In Store)

How to Buy a Custom Suit

Here I’m going to give you everything you need to know to buy custom made suit.

Make Sure Custom is The Right Choice

The first rule of buying a custom made suit is to make sure that it is the right choice for you.

To put it another way, you have options.

Off-the-rack suits are first on the list. In specialty menswear stores, this is the most prevalent suit style. These are ready-to-wear suits that come in a variety of various sizes and cuts.

If you have the time, you can find something that fits you relatively well and can be adjusted to fit you exceptionally well.

If you need a suit right now, this is definitely your best option.

So, what’s the point of going custom?

Because you care about the fit, the style, and the fabric.

If it’s a custom fit, it’s just for one person – you. Custom suits don’t care if you’re tall, short, huge, small, or a combination of the above.

They’ll be custom-made to fit your measurements and just your measurements.

Alternatively, if you’ve seen this fabric and want that specific jacket or suit in that fabric, custom is the way to go because you’ll be able to pick the fabric and receive the exact style you desire.

Understand The Process

The second thing to understand about custom suits is that they are a process. You won’t be able to get the suit the same day.

In fact, this can take several weeks. This thing is being built from the ground up.

Recognize that there may be several fittings and that you will need to take measurements. This is going to take a little more time than usual.

However, if you care about having the perfect style, fabric, and fit, the process is well worth it.

Accurate Measurements

When going a custom suit, you may expect to have around fifty measurements taken of your body taken.

Only two measurements are taken when buying jeans: the inseam and the waist. Alternatively, we could be looking at a shirt: small, medium, or large.

When you order something custom, though, they will take measurements of every region of your body, from your neck to your chest to your torso.

They’re going to measure your height and weigh you. They will, however, examine your posture and the way your arms dangle.

All of these information will go into weaving a two-dimensional fabric and then going it into a work of art.

The most important thing to remember here is to double-check that anyone you’re dealing with to make your custom suit is taking all of the sure measurements.

Many locations allow you to take your own measurements. Make sure you measure twice so they just have to cut once if you’re going to do this. Because sending in incorrect measurements is one of the worst things you can do.

If you can have someone measure you, much better if they have a block system, that’s ideal.

A block system is one in which pre-made garments are used. They have you try these garments on after they collect your measurements.

These garments are telling them how you might fit in them.

They already have your measurements, but how do you feel about the fit of these trousers in the thigh area, for example? One man prefers a tighter fit, while another prefers a looser fit.

Another thing that many people overlook is to make sure that you are wearing your best-fitting apparel when you walk in to be measured or when you measure yourself.

Good Communication

The second stage in finding the perfect suit online is to make sure the folks or team you’re dealing with has solid communication skills, which is sometimes ignored yet crucial.

You have an image in your mind of how you want your custom suit to look and fit. They’re going to build you a monstrosity if they don’t ask you the correct questions.

They’re going to assume he prefers a modern slim fit. But you were hoping for something a little looser.

Communication is critical. Make sure they speak your language and have great communication abilities. That’s what we’re aiming for when it comes to reducing errors.

See also  How to Tailor Your Own Suit Jacket

Know What You Want

Many guys are going to buy custom and have no idea what they want. It’s great if you run into a salesman or work with someone who truly cares about your well-being and can guide you, but it doesn’t happen all of the time.

You want to make sure you’re not being led astray on purpose, but you can’t expect that individual to read your mind.

So you want to double-check that you have all you require.

Whether you’ve recently graduated from law school and are starting your first job at a top law firm, find out what they wear to the office on a daily basis if you’ll be wearing a suit.

You’ll be able to build the wardrobe you require after you understand this.

However, you may require sports jackets or unusual trousers. When you can provide more detailed information about what you require, it will make everyone’s job easier.

One Garment at a Time

The next thing is crucial, and that is to have only one garment made at a time. I’m talking about one suit, one shirt, and one vest.

Why don’t you have five suits or ten shirts custom-made for you?

Because if this is their first time making it, you want to make sure it fits well.

You should be able to go through numerous fittings to achieve exactly what you want on the fit if you only ask for one shirt, one jacket, and one pair of trousers.


Fittings are to be expected, especially when you’re just getting started. You should expect one to two fittings for your first garment while they work to perfect it.

Perhaps a shirt is a smidgeon too loose or too tight around the neck. Perhaps you’d want the sleeves to be a little longer. They’ll take note of it and be able to bring it in and make the necessary adjustments.

The important aspect to remember is that they not only make adjustments, but they also adjust your pattern. You should inquire about this because they will be able to replicate the garment when they adjust your pattern.

You don’t want them to replicate the same error twice. You want to make sure that if those adjustments are made, the pattern is adjusted as well, so that all of your future suits and sports coats will fit flawlessly because you did the work up front.

Choose Fabric

When looking at fabric, there are four things you should pay attention to.


First and foremost, there’s the color. If this is your first custom suit, I strongly advise you to go with a simple solid color, such as navy, charcoal gray, or medium gray, that you will wear again and again.

You might remark, “I already have a few of suits like that in my closet,” but do you have a custom suit like that? The answer is most likely no, and this is where you should start.

It’s all about the fit, and we can play around with the style, but for your first custom suit, change things simple.

If this isn’t your first custom suit and you’ve already made a couple, feel free to start having a little more fun depending on your knowledge and what you know about menswear.


Let’s talk about patterns for a moment.

Again, no pattern for your first custom suit. However, if you absolutely want to bring a pattern, you could.

Consider a herringbone pattern. Until you get up close, a herringbone weave in a plain fabric is barely discernible. It adds depth and weight to the fabric, going it a thicker, heavier fabric that still looks stunning.

Window panes, checks, and pinstripes are more options. These aren’t your interchangeable pieces when you start bringing them in; these are going to be much more memorable, and these are going to be suits that stand out.

Pinstripes are all about getting the job done. Window panes and checks will be lot more relaxed.

Birdseye, sharkstooth, and nailshead are examples of small repeating patterns. They’ll do just fine, but they’ll be a little more laid-back.

If you already have three or four suits in your wardrobe, though, I recommend adding something like this. It adds some texture to the dish. At the same time, it appears solid from afar, and people won’t notice the pattern until they go close.

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Let’s discuss about materials next. Wool is preferred by 99 percent of you. It’s all about the wool these days.

Worsted wool is a term you’ll come across. Simply said, this indicates that the wool has been woven into a tight thread and is perfect for suiting. The draping is lovely. Even the most basic worsted wools have come a long way.

A blend is the last thing you want to do. A blend occurs when a small amount of polyester is mixed in with the wool, occasionally 50/50.

Because they’re utilizing this material, it’s quite inexpensive, and it never looks as good.

What about silk, for example? What about cotton, for example? Is linen an option?

I believe that when blended with wool, you can obtain some wonderful options, but don’t do this for your first suit because it will require more upkeep if you acquire your first suit, for example, 50 percent linen. It can also cause additional wrinkles.

These are, in my opinion, attractive options for the summer. However, for most guys, worsted wool is the way to go.


Let’s discuss about the cost of fabric. This is significant since the final cost of a custom suit is frequently determined by the material cost.

An average custom suit requires roughly 3-1/2 yards of fabric. Depending on the fabric, the mill from whence it comes, and what is in it, this can range from a few dollars per yard to over a thousand dollars per yard.

If the choice is between wool and polyester, silk and a very rare wool. They have woven materials with a small amount of gold in them. These can be quite costly.

Understand that when a tailor does this, it’s not about the amount of work that goes into it for him; it’s about the cost of the raw materials.

If you want to go with something extremely rare, something extremely high-end, or something that isn’t produced in large quantities, the price will skyrocket.

However, if you choose a material that they have lots of, that is a mainstay, and that is timeless, you will find that the cost will be reduced.

Super Numbers

Let us discuss the super number. When you see super 80, super 120, and super 220, understand in mind that none of them are regulated. The super 120 of one corporation could be the super 220 of another.

Many people compare this to the number of megapixels in a camera. People want to buy a camera with a lot of megapixels whenever they see one because it’s the newest and greatest.

Don’t get taken in by it.

Any super 100 or super 120 will be absolutely stunning and flawless. In general, I anticipate super 220s to be excellent. In general, the cost will rise in lockstep with the super number.


Let’s speak about design now. KISS — keep it simple stupid – is my counsel to you.

I have a lot of suits, and the ones I wear the least are the ones where the design is way too intricate.

You will end up with a monstrosity if you do an eclectic here, eclectic there, changing things up to be different.

When it comes to lapels, notch lapels will suffice for the vast majority of people.

Peak lapels will have a more formal feel to them. If you want to go with shawl lapels, you’ll notice that it’s more rare on black tie.

In general, though, notch lapels are acceptable.

How many buttons do you have on the front? In general, two. Two-buttoned jackets account for 95% of all jackets on the market.

If this is your first custom suit, avoid going with a double-breasted suit because you don’t own any and don’t typically wear them. Don’t buy something that will put a lot of pressure on you.

When it comes to the back of the jacket, many individuals buy for the single vent when purchasing something off-the-rack.

I strongly recommend you to go with the double vent. It may not appear to be much, but it makes a significant difference in how the jacket fits and flows when you’re walking.

When it comes to the buttons on the sleeve of the jacket, make sure they are functional. You might wish to use contrasting stitching.

Another great little thing you can do is contrast stitching. Change up the buttons, maybe a few things here and there, but keep it simple overall.

See also  Men's Suit Buying Guide (How to Buy First Good Suit)

The same goes for the pants: keep it simple. Don’t buy pleats today if you don’t generally have pleats on your trousers. If you don’t regularly cuff your trousers, keep the bottom hem straight.

Suspender buttons on the inside are something I highly recommend. Nobody will be able to see it. You may never wear them, but if you want to buy suspenders, they are an option.

If you have the option, I always suggest purchasing a second pair of trousers. The trousers are the most commonly damaged part of a suit.

If you have two pairs of trousers, a suit, and this is your go-to suit, you’ll have something that will last a lot longer.

If you have two pairs of trousers, one of them should have side tabs. Removing the belt loops is a must. It will simply cinch up on the sides.

I adore this look since it’s so unique, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you only have one pair of trousers because it can be problematic if you gain or lose weight.


What about wearing a vest? It appeals to me greatly. If you want to add some pizzazz to your outfit, I recommend wearing a contrasting vest or a matching vest.

If you’re going to wear the suit a lot, go for the three-piece suit appearance.

One of the most difficult garments to fit is the vest. If you’re buying this custom, make sure you have it adjusted if it doesn’t fit well.

The vest is one of those things where there isn’t a lot of room to loosen or give, so you want to make sure you get exactly what you want.

Even if you find the perfect fit, you’re stuck with the style they give you when you buy a vest off the rack. You can acquire styles that you could only imagine when you go custom.

This is where I prefer to let my hair down and have a good time. You can select single-breasted or double-breasted with four buttons on either side.


What about personalized t-shirts?

You can bet they can make custom shirts if they can make suits and vests.

When they have your measurements, it’s a simple decision. That’s one of the things I like about working with a single manufacturer or company.

I prefer to stick to traditional hues. White and blue shirts are my favorites. They simply work with all I’ve got.

When it comes to collars, there are a plethora of options. That’s where you’ll have a lot of fun. The collar can be kept simple, but the style can be changed. That shirt will look fantastic on you if you get the fit perfect.


It’s been a few weeks since you received the suit, shirt, vest, and trousers.

Let’s talk about fittings now.

This is a completely normal aspect of the process, especially if you’re buying something custom for the first time.

You’ll need to make some adjustments.

If you’re going with someone who doesn’t use a block system, you’ll almost always need to get some fittings done, but understand in mind that adjustments are a normal part of the process.

So, as you’re going through these fittings, it’s great if you can go in and have them look at it and make the necessary adjustments so that your profile and pattern can be updated.

You now have a suit that is exactly tailored to you. You have a very great shirt on. You have a great vest on. You’re dressed to the nines and look like a million bucks.

What should I do now? Wear it on.

The outfit you never wear is the most expensive you’ll ever own.

You’ll have to go out and acquire more because you’ve worn it so many times.

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  • Christopher

    Christopher has 9+ years of experience as a creative fashion designer who stays current with the latest trends.

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